There’s no
denying that I love the holiday season, and the undercurrent of excitement that
passes from person to person in New
York City, with each
transaction at the deli or hand offered when exiting a city bus. It’s easy to
take my beloved city for granted, since it’s my home and the backdrop for daily
school runs and trips to the dry cleaner. But when I have guests, especially
during the Christmas season, it allows me to see the city again with innocent
eyes.
Once again I
feel the fizz of living within walking distance of Rockefeller
Center
with its monumental tree festooned in red and gold ribbons. I walk
out-of-towners through Macy’s, making sure to take a ride on the old
wooden-slatted escalators, and a peek at Santa so we can pretend we’re in the
movie Miracle on 34th
Street. And I love
watching the ice skaters on the rink at Bryant Park, gliding to the music
amidst the stalls peddling handmade holiday gifts, as we sip hot cider and
cocoa.
After long days
of walking in the chill air, I enjoy treating my guests to a homey dinner, as
an antidote to the rich and exotic restaurant fare the Big Apple offers. Most
guests will have sampled sweets and desserts ranging from cherry blintzes at
the Edison CafĂ©, to Junior’s cheesecake, to Crack Pie from Momofuku, so I like
to make savory dishes during the holidays.
Here are a few
of my wintertime favorites that I hope will help warm up your kitchen, your
spirit, and your guests.
Minted Mashed Carrots
Winter is the
time for comforting foods, the sturdy ones that stick to your ribs. I love root
vegetables — carrots in particular — for checking that box. This cheerily bright
side dish is homey, while popping as not-your-every-day fare. The tangy citrus
harmonizes with the herbal mint, making this mash perfect for serving alongside
savory meats with rich gravies.
This recipe was
inspired by one developed in the Fine Cooking “Fakesgiving” trial run cooking
marathon in which cooks make as many Thanksgiving sides as they possibly can.
It certainly holds its own on a table with a turkey dinner, or why not serve it
as a complement to gamey venison steaks or rich Moroccan-spiced lamb meatballs.
Makes 4 Generous Servings
2 pounds / 900
grams carrots, peeled and cut into small chunks (about 1 inch / 2 1/2
centimeters)
2 teaspoons
coarse sea salt, divided
1 tablespoon
olive oil
2 tablespoons whipping
cream or double cream
3 tablespoons unsalted
butter
1 tablespoon
finely chopped fresh mint
1/2 teaspoon
finely grated lemon zest
1 tablespoon
orange juice
1/2 teaspoon
finely ground black pepper
In
a medium saucepan, set over high heat, combine the carrots with enough cold
water to cover by about 1 inch / 2 1/2 centimeters. Add 1 teaspoon of sea salt and bring the water
to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the carrots are fork
tender, about 30 minutes.
Transfer
the carrots to a colander and drain, allowing them to rest.
In
the same saucepan, set over low heat, combine the remaining salt, oil, cream, butter,
mint, lemon zest, orange juice, and pepper, and heat gently, stirring
occasionally, until the butter melts and the ingredients combine.
Return
the carrots to the pan with the oil and butter mixture and mash with a potato
masher. Serve immediately.
Store
in the refrigerator in a tightly lidded container for up to 3 days.
Winter Turkey and Barley Soup
The holiday
season is the time for roast dinners, and in my house, not many nights pass
without chicken or turkey on the menu. Every bit as warming and as satisfying
as roast fowl, is a winter soup. And
it’s the perfect dish to make with the leftovers from a Sunday lunch. It’ll
fill your belly, soothe your soul, and ward off seasonal colds.
For the Stock:
Leftovers from
a roast chicken or turkey
1 large white
or yellow onion
1 head garlic
1 bay leaf
Using
your hands, pick all the nice bits of chicken or turkey off of the carcass of a
leftover roast, put it in a bowl, and set it in the refrigerator.
In a
large stock pot, cover the bones, skin, and remaining meat, and cover with cold
water by about 1 inch / 2.5 centimeters. Set the pot over high heat, cover, and
bring to a boil. Reduce to medium-low, and simmer covered for 30 minutes.
Remove
the lid, and reduce the heat to low, and
simmer for another 30 minutes to an hour, or until the liquid has reduced by
half.
Strain, and let stand for half an hour.
Using a large, wide spoon, skim the fat and film from the surface. Use immediately
to make soup, or store in a tightly lidded container in the refrigerator for up
to 3 days, or in the freezer for up to 6 months.
For the Soup:
1 tablespoon
olive oil
1/2 pound / 225
grams celery, ribbed if necessary, and chopped finely
1/2 pound / 225
grams carrots, peeled and sliced
1 medium leek,
cleaned and sliced
1.2 lt/2 pt
chicken stock (see box)
3 ounces / 80 grams
/ 1/2 cup pearl barley
8 ounces / 225
grams cooked chicken or turkey, chopped coarsely
6 ounces / 175
grams potatoes, cooked until tender, then chopped
(more or
less, from one medium to large potato)
6 ounces / 175
grams cooked sweet peas, cooked until tender
1 tablespoon
fresh dill, finely chopped
1 teaspoon
lemon juice
salt
pepper
In
a large, heavy-bottomed stockpot set over medium heat, warm the oil, about 3 to
5 minutes. Add the celery, carrots, and leek, then saute for about 5 minutes,
until the vegetables just begin to get tender. Add the stock, pearl barley,
chicken and potatoes and season well.
Increase
the heat to high, and stirring constantly, bring the soup to a high simmer,
stopping just before the boil.
Cover and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the
barley, celery and carrots are tender. Stir in the cooked vegetables, return to
the boil and simmer for 1 minute. Stir in the parsley, lemon juice, salt and
pepper.
Store
in a tightly-lidded container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Endive Spoons, with Cheese, Fruit, and
Nuts
I love this appetizer
for its elegance as much as its simplicity. Easy to make, this pretty hors
d’oeuvres makes a splash served at the table or passed during the cocktail
hour.
The palate of
this dish is genius: The bitterness of the endive, the sweetness of the pears
and figs, the tang of the blue cheese and lemon, and the depth of the nuts
combine to make each mouthful a mini-meal. And as far as holiday snacks go,
this one offers health as well as flavor!
2 ounces / 50 grams goat cheese
16 leaves of Belgian endive (from 2 or 3
small heads), leaves separated, washed thoroughly and patted dry
2 large, ripe Bartlett
pears, cored and sliced thinly (peel left on)
4 ounces / 100 grams dried figs, pitted
and quartered
2 ounces / 50 grams gorgonzola cheese,
crumbled
2 ounces / 50 grams walnuts, coarsely
chopped
1 small lemon, halved and seeded
Lay the endive
leaves out flat on a large platter, and spread a thin layer of goat cheese on
each. Lay a pear slice onto each and press down firmly. Dot the tops of the
pears with pieces of fig, then divide the gorgonzola, and walnuts over the
tops.
Squeeze lemon
juice lightly over all of the hors d’oeuvres, plate on a decorative tray, and
serve immediately. Store in a tightly lidded container in the refrigerator for
up to 3 days.
Author Bio
HarperImpulse novelist Lynn Marie Hulsman's varied employment background
includes stints as a copywriter for a direct marketing agency specializing in
casino advertising (Free buffets! Loose slots!), ushering at Manhattan Theatre
Club where she ran smack into Steve Martin's chest, irritated Jeremy Irons's
agent, and saw John Slattery naked over 50 times, editing materials for major
pharmaceutical companies (Ask her anything about the prostate: She knows.),
creatively ideating to re-brand major household products for huge corporations,
and passing out cheese cube samples (a decided low point). As a performer she's
been seen onstage at Caroline's, Stand Up New York, and headlining with her
sketch group Hits Like a Girl at The Big Stinkin' Comedy Festival in Austin,TX.
She can't tell you what she's ghost written (obv!) but she's co-written two
books on cookery, and is sole author of the forthcoming cookbook The Kentucky
Bourbon Dessert Cookbook. She does not believe in white chocolate.
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Book Blurb:
Need a fun, festive treat to warm
you up on cold winter nights? Don't miss this terrific debut from a witty new
voice in romantic comedy!
When Juliet Hill unwittingly
discovers a most-definitely-not-hers-rhinestone-studded lace thong in her
high-flying lawyer boyfriend's apartment, this usually feisty chef is suddenly
single and facing a very blue Christmas - with only a ready meal for one to keep
her company!
So when she's personally requested
to cater for the family at Thornton Hall three days before Christmas, it's not
long before Juliet's standing at the (back) door of the impossibly grand
ancestral pile.
The halls are decked, the guests
are titled, those below the stairs are delightfully catty, and all-American
Juliet sets to work cooking up a glorious British Christmas with all the
trimmings.
But other flames are burning
besides those on the stove... Sparks fly with Edward, the gorgeous ex-soldier
turned resident chef, and are those sidelong looks Juliet's getting from her
boss, the American tycoon Jasper Roth?
As the snow starts to fall on the
idyllic Cotswolds countryside, so does the veneer of genteel high society and
there are more than a few ancient skeletons rattling out of the Hall's numerous
dark cupboards!
CHRISTMAS AT THORNTON HALL is a
country house romance for the modern age, a must-read for fans of the scandals
and drama of Downton Abbey and the charm and wit of Helen
Fielding.
Buy Christmas at Thornton Hall
Connect with Lynn Marie Hulsman